(Part 2 Pond building)
1) Can you see it from inside
2) Can you get to your pond with ease?
3) Is there a door to your home in the direction of the pond?
4) Do you have a fence around the yard, where the pond is going in?
5) Check with building codes prior to digging, and check for burried pipes and wires prior to digging
6) Do not put you pond over your septic tank or drain field!
7) Is there Power available? Or can a new power line be strung to the pond area?
8) Is there a tap for water close? So you can fill your pond from time to time?
9) Lay out a garden hose or a rope the shape of the water of your pond. Go inside your home and look out over the pond area, is the pond to big or to small go out and adjust the hose, Walk around the pond and look at it from different angles maybe you need to change the shape of the water.
10) Consider a location next to your pond for a Bog area. This will provide filtration for your pond.
Check with our Nursery staff experts about the shape and size and depth of your new pond. Ask about waterfalls and bogs prior to removing any dirt.
Dig out the area just inside the hose shape pilling the dirt around the edges.
Scrounge around for used carpet or lots of wet news papers(1/2" thick all over the bottom of your pond).
You will need two loads of Rock one load of oversized River rock one load of rip-rap rock (one man or less in size). I do like having a load of silty sand to pack in and help build the bulk head for the raised edge of the pond and waterfall.
The bottom of the pond should slope to one end for easy cleaning.
After the pond is dug measure the entire length and width including the depth to see that it matches the estimated pond dimensions.
Get the liner to your pond site at this stage!
Dig the 9 inch by 9 inch keeper rock ledge Rake and remove all rocks, clay balls roots sticks from the pond(this is the most important step)
Lay in the carpet or the wet newspaper (protection layer)
Lay in the liner on top of the protection layer.
Place several rocks around the pond on the liner(keeping it from folding in. Hand place the river rock onto the liner and smooth out folds and wrinkles in the pond as you go. Once the bottom of the pond is covered with river rock rinse off the stones and remove the muddy water with a pump or buckets.
Some people will place the keeper stones at this time while the pond is empty. I like to work with the water level up to the keeper ledge. This provides more support for the walls and there is less crumbling. Once the keeper stones are all the way around the pond, on the keeper ledge, then the cap stones are placed on top of the keeper stones.
Fill the pond up and check for any low spots. If the low spots are in the wrong area back fill with sand, to raise that area up, and pick your spot for the pond to overflow . "DIP the LIP!"
Your pond water will look milky to cloudy depending on the amount of clay and dust on the rocks. This will settle out with in a few hours to a few days.
The edge of the liner should point UP! Keep it in place with a ring of edge stones.
SIDE NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended that Professional weed barrier cloth is placed on the soil around the pond just under the edge of the liner and under the edge stones. this will slow down the weeds. Mulch or gravel or bark can then be placed around the pond on top of the weed barrier.
You will have to wait 24 hrs before you add fish and snails. Plants can be added immediately after filling even with City water.
You have your pond in!! ............Enjoy!
Bogs and waterfalls next Page
3 Bogs and Waterfalls
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